mainuh
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« on: January 31, 2010, 11:42:59 AM » |
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I wanted to have some fun with the Wishon S2R putter that I won in the giveaway and part of that was to have some stamping done. I wanted something a bit more unique than what you normally see, so I went on a massive google search to find suppliers of decorative stamps - you can find ABC's anywhere. So...here are a list of sites that offer some unique stamps to truly personalize that wedge, putter, iron that you have. Metalliferous - http://store.metalliferous.com/If you're in Fairfield / Westchester counties you can actually stop by there and save the shipping. They are a commercial warehouse that ships from the actual store other location in NYC. This is the stamp I bought from them - @ 6.50 http://store.metalliferous.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PUN107.65Beaducation http://www.beaducation.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=101_104 Jatayu http://www.jatayu.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=J&Category_Code=TSPSanta Fe Jewelry http://www.sfjssantafe.com/itemstable.php?Gid=WS62&ItemSet=Stamps&DepId=tools&ot=&at= Things Western http://www.thingswestern.com/6.html R o b  Stamp Holder - http://www.mcmaster.com/#1556t205/=5ve3ruThis link is courtesy of Frank/Camster/Ace of Clubs
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« Last Edit: February 18, 2010, 09:10:54 AM by mainuh »
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rockford35
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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2010, 01:37:55 PM » |
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Callaway FT Tour 9.5* Matrix Ozik F6M2 TEE 3+ Accuflex Evolution Cleveland Launcher Steel 21* Accuflex Evolution or Callaway X Forged 2 iron Nippon 1050GH Nakashima NP-1 3-PW Nippon 1050GH Callaway X Forged 54* & 60* Nippon Pro 1050GH SC Fastback 1.5 HEAVY
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mainuh
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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2010, 02:10:22 PM » |
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too cool - great stamp. Don't know whats going on with the western site but they had drawings of the stamps as well a few weeks ago and if you were into a "cowboy" theme they are terrific. rob
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SBR67
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« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2010, 10:15:48 PM » |
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Thanks, Rob. Some of those look good. I'm not a fan of the dancing letters stuff and these are a great alternative for customization.
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camster8
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« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2010, 08:59:17 AM » |
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"Often Imitated, NEVER Duplicated!"
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mainuh
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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2010, 05:23:23 PM » |
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Frank - do you ever do decorative stampings such as the one I have on my putter? If so, is there a company name / link where you buy them? R o b 
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rockford35
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« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2010, 05:59:12 PM » |
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R o b   R35
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camster8
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« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2010, 07:53:14 PM » |
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Frank - do you ever do decorative stampings such as the one I have on my putter? If so, is there a company name / link where you buy them? R o b  Never... No need to make more "hits" than necessary... I screw it up, I eat it! BTW, do you know anyone with the initials Q.Z. that might be looking for a good deal on a "personalized" wedge? 
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rockford35
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« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2010, 08:16:55 PM » |
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Never... No need to make more "hits" than necessary... I screw it up, I eat it! BTW, do you know anyone with the initials Q.Z. that might be looking for a good deal on a "personalized" wedge?  Is it left handed?  R35
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Lagolf31
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2010, 05:37:30 PM » |
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Just picked up the yin/yang one and the Maple Leaf (Canada represent!) one. I tried the metalliferous site but they wouldn't ship to Canada so I tried the one suggested by R35. Just a friendly tip for any of you canucks out there. I will post pics when I can of my custom stamped Scratch wedges, but have to wait til' the f'ing icicles melt on the inside of my garage 
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mainuh
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« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2010, 02:10:19 PM » |
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Very good step by step photos / instructions on MyGolfSpy should anyone want to get a better handle on how to do it. http://www.mygolfspy.com/how-to-hand-stamp-golf-clubs/rob 
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camster8
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« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2010, 07:03:15 PM » |
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Honestly speaking, those instructions are horrible... One good solid strike should do it... For every strike over 1, you run the risk of of double stamping or "shadowing" your previous stamp. When you stamp you are essentially "cold working" the material. Cold working can make the area susceptible to "work hardening". The 6 to 10 strikes come from buying a cheap stamp that does not flow the material the way a better one would. Spend a few extra bucks to get a quality stamp or two. After all, your initials aren't going to change, but your wedges will...
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rockford35
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« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2010, 07:07:05 PM » |
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Honestly speaking, those instructions are horrible... One good solid strike should do it... For every strike over 1, you run the risk of of double stamping or "shadowing" your previous stamp. When you stamp you are essentially "cold working" the material. Cold working can make the area susceptible to "work hardening". The 6 to 10 strikes come from buying a cheap stamp that does not flow the material the way a better one would. Spend a few extra bucks to get a quality stamp or two. After all, your initials aren't going to change, but your wedges will...
Frank, Your comments - do they relate to cast wedges as well? I've never attempted a stamp on a cast, mainly because I don't have cast wedges.  That said, I'd like to give it a go someday and am wondering if the procedure is the same for a cast head. Forged, one strike, cast,  Thanks, R35
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camster8
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« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2010, 08:12:59 PM » |
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Frank, Your comments - do they relate to cast wedges as well? I've never attempted a stamp on a cast, mainly because I don't have cast wedges.  That said, I'd like to give it a go someday and am wondering if the procedure is the same for a cast head. Forged, one strike, cast,  Thanks, R35 Forged or Cast, I've never had to strike a stamp twice... Good metal stamps have sharply defined lines and polished surfaces for the "upset" metal to flow better. Do you have to strike a cast wedge a bit harder? Of course... But it is all in the practice... I stamp a ton of SM'ed Vokeys and never have a problem... It also pays to invest in a stamp holder like we mentioned earlier in this thread. I even posted a picture of one I believe... You are more likely to mis-strike a stamp holding it with your fingers... You concentrate more on not hitting your fingers than you do on hitting the stamp...
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rockford35
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« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2010, 08:32:55 PM » |
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Forged or Cast, I've never had to strike a stamp twice... Good metal stamps have sharply defined lines and polished surfaces for the "upset" metal to flow better. Do you have to strike a cast wedge a bit harder? Of course... But it is all in the practice... I stamp a ton of SM'ed Vokeys and never have a problem... It also pays to invest in a stamp holder like we mentioned earlier in this thread. I even posted a picture of one I believe... You are more likely to mis-strike a stamp holding it with your fingers... You concentrate more on not hitting your fingers than you do on hitting the stamp...
Roger that, Frank. I have a stamp holder, it does wonders for your confidence in the strike. I'll have to grab a cast head and give it a go. I wonder if my wife needs her clubs stamped? T R A M P  R35
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camster8
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« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2010, 08:39:14 AM » |
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Roger that, Frank. I have a stamp holder, it does wonders for your confidence in the strike. I'll have to grab a cast head and give it a go. I wonder if my wife needs her clubs stamped? T R A M P  R35 If she does, don't make any mistakes??? It will in all likelihood be your last... 
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mainuh
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« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2010, 09:18:02 AM » |
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Frank - I added your McMaster link for the stamp holder to the "sticky". Having swung my 4lb. sledge and aiming for the stamp I will acknowledge that fear of the hammer coming down on my fingers.  You'd think that after 30 years as a trim carpenter my aim would be pretty good but mistakes still happen. Gave up using waffle head framing hammers for just this reason, love my nail guns. rob ps - just thought about it but don't see why a pair of Vise-Grip Pliers wouldn't work just as well. A bit more versatile and something useful in the tool box. Am I wrong in thinking this would work ?
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« Last Edit: February 18, 2010, 09:36:48 AM by mainuh »
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jeffkar
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« Reply #17 on: February 18, 2010, 10:44:29 AM » |
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What size is the typical wedge stamp? I'm thinking 1/4"?
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camster8
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« Reply #18 on: February 18, 2010, 12:25:17 PM » |
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What size is the typical wedge stamp? I'm thinking 1/4"?
3/32" or 1/8", Jeff... Any bigger, you could then see it from the highway... 
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camster8
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« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2010, 12:29:08 PM » |
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Frank - I added your McMaster link for the stamp holder to the "sticky". Having swung my 4lb. sledge and aiming for the stamp I will acknowledge that fear of the hammer coming down on my fingers.  You'd think that after 30 years as a trim carpenter my aim would be pretty good but mistakes still happen. Gave up using waffle head framing hammers for just this reason, love my nail guns. rob ps - just thought about it but don't see why a pair of Vise-Grip Pliers wouldn't work just as well. A bit more versatile and something useful in the tool box. Am I wrong in thinking this would work ? Vise grips would work OK. The only thing about vise grips is that they block a greater portion of your view. The specific stamp holders are designed for a clean field of view...
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LowSpinningHook
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« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2010, 02:55:45 PM » |
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I know this was an old post, but...
Does it matter how the club is held? I would assume you need to set the face flat on something?
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camster8
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« Reply #21 on: August 04, 2010, 05:30:30 AM » |
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I know this was an old post, but...
Does it matter how the club is held? I would assume you need to set the face flat on something?
Yes it does... Most bench vises come with a machined, flat surface, behind the jaws. My bench vise is attached to a corner of one of my work benches. Here's a couple of pics showing my set up...   I also covered the anvil-type, flat section with a couple of pieces of masking tape. Helps prevent marking of the face...
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LowSpinningHook
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« Reply #22 on: August 09, 2010, 10:13:12 AM » |
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Is that just a standard clamp or is there a special pad (red material in photo) to not mar the back?
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camster8
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« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2010, 06:43:26 AM » |
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Is that just a standard clamp or is there a special pad (red material in photo) to not mar the back?
Just a standard clamp, which included the red pad, from Home Depot...
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