blades_cut_strokes
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« on: January 04, 2010, 04:04:19 AM » |
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so ive always wanted a set of these.. Recently i was at a thrift store and they had a set !  .. 2-9 with a 58 PW .. the heads are in ok condition but they are gonna need a reshaft. I have no idea how to do it.. Ive reshafted clubs before but never with the bore through hosel.. Is this something i can do? or do you need special tools to work on these.. can anyone point me in the right direction of a pro or maybe a rep here on this website that does such work ?? oh yea.. got the set with vintage leather bag and 1,3 ,5 7 woods.. all matching serial #'s . 8 bucks... Thanks
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iamzodia
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2010, 10:10:20 AM » |
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they are not bore thrus. their is a hollow space between the bottom of the shaft and the bottom of the sole that is filled with a rubber piece. replacing the rubber is the trickiest part. don't be surprised if you find the shafts are really really hard to get out. lots of heat and twisting is my memory.
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Adams Speedline 10.5 deg with blue Oban Devotion shaft 46" Sonartec 4wd with Matrix MFS 65 orange shaft Adams Pro 3 and 5 Hybrids with Enzo zone shafts Miura CB 301 irons 5-PW with frequency matched graphite shafts Miura Y Grind 51 deg wedge with frequency matched graphite shaft Miura black wedges 56 and 60 with Nippon 1050 shafts Slighter Kent putter 34"
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Huge. Quickly. Bye.
Judge Smails Courtroom
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2010, 10:34:17 AM » |
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The shafts on the vintage Wilson Staffs can be a biatch to remove. Some sets were undersized (.350 tapers) and they were really slammed into the hosels at the factory... I have also heard that some shafts were actually threaded, but I have never come across those.
Let us know how you make out.
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blades_cut_strokes
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2010, 01:07:22 AM » |
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yea .. i cant get them out.. i need a pro to do this one...
anyone on this site want to quote me on pulling 9 old shafts ?
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wenoG
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2010, 09:41:51 AM » |
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yea .. i cant get them out.. i need a pro to do this one...
anyone on this site want to quote me on pulling 9 old shafts ?
are there shaft pins going thru the hosel and shaft? if so, you have to tap them out. w ps...they could be threaded like Drewspin mentioned. I have some Walter Hagens from the late 60's that the hosel and the shafts had threads and you basically needed to "unscrew" the shaft out of the head. w
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jbgservices
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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2010, 09:19:09 PM » |
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Just redone a set of 62-63 Wilson Staff Turfriders from the ground up. Purchased a used set for a few bucks (3-PW) and pulled the heads so I could get them rechromed. To stick to the topic of removing the heads it is very easy. They are what you call a .340 taper shaft and have a tip that screws into the head which is reverse threaded for the right handed clubs. When you want to remove a head, lock the shaft into a vice, heat up the hosel and then turn clockwise. They will come out easily. Caution, do not twist counter clockwise or you might break off the threaded tip and leave it in the head. However this can be removed with a drill bit that grabs the threaded tip and spins it out. I stepped drilled the hosel to accept .355 taper tipped S300s ( before chroming )but you should not bore out deeper than 1.5" because of the narrow hosel and if you were going to a .370 parallel tip I would not go any farther than 1.375".
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BigLeftyinAZ
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« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2010, 09:31:36 PM » |
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Just redone a set of 62-63 Wilson Staff Turfriders from the ground up. Purchased a used set for a few bucks (3-PW) and pulled the heads so I could get them rechromed. To stick to the topic of removing the heads it is very easy. They are what you call a .340 taper shaft and have a tip that screws into the head which is reverse threaded for the right handed clubs. When you want to remove a head, lock the shaft into a vice, heat up the hosel and then turn clockwise. They will come out easily. Caution, do not twist counter clockwise or you might break off the threaded tip and leave it in the head. However this can be removed with a drill bit that grabs the threaded tip and spins it out. I stepped drilled the hosel to accept .355 taper tipped S300s ( before chroming )but you should not bore out deeper than 1.5" because of the narrow hosel and if you were going to a .370 parallel tip I would not go any farther than 1.375".
Would love to see pics of the finished product
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jbgservices
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« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2010, 10:05:17 PM » |
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The reason why I piped up about this topic is that I ordered a full set of '63 Wilson Staffs (1,3,4 woods and 1-PW irons) from my local pro. They were x-stiff and 1.25" longer than standard, and as I recall E1 swingweight, even with the built up leather wrapped BELL grips. I was a big and strong in those days but trust me they were like swinging telephone poles. I am trying to replicate these irons and will certainly follow up with some pics.
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Blair
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« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2010, 07:51:53 AM » |
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I have seen "jbgservices" rechromed Wilson Staff "Turfrider" iron blades paint filled and they are really nice looking. He also used new ferrels from the company who originally made them for Wilson. Hope "jbgservices" takes a few snapshots and shares them some day.
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1956 MacGregor Tourney M85W's woods(1,2 & 3) & 1969 Acushnet "Finalist fitted 2-SW irons, a Vokey LW & the "Flatstick" is a Acushnet BullsEye Brass "Flange". The ball is softest covered and 90 compression maximum.
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Huge. Quickly. Bye.
Judge Smails Courtroom
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« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2010, 05:19:08 PM » |
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I have seen "jbgservices" rechromed Wilson Staff "Turfrider" iron blades paint filled and they are really nice looking. He also used new ferrels from the company who originally made them for Wilson. Hope "jbgservices" takes a few snapshots and shares them some day.
Are the ferrules from cell-parts?
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jbgservices
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« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2010, 06:52:47 PM » |
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Yes, they are from cell-parts. Janine, (contact and grandaughter of the founders) was more than helpful with sizing and colors and a great company to deal with. They are the original makers of a lot of the OEM ferrules and only sell "quality", unlike the stuff from China. You can tell the difference when you turn them down.
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jbgservices
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2010, 03:29:18 PM » |
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Sorry for the delay on the pics (and also the quality). The chroming job was fair but not the best (done by a friend). I have not hit a club in over 5 years due to sciatica and bad legs. I took them to GolfTown here in Canada and had one of my better player friends hit a few balls with the 5 iron. He could not believe how nice and solid they felt (these young guys really missed a lot of good equipment). And yes, that is a 1958-59 WS Dynapower SW that I redone to complete the set.
Jack
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jbgservices
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2010, 03:33:47 PM » |
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Sorry More Pics--Jack
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jbgservices
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 03:39:49 PM » |
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Again --Jack
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Blair
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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2010, 06:18:07 PM » |
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Jack Very nice set of Wilson Staff "Turfriders" irons. I've heard you talk about playing a set of them some years ago and being able to play some very competitive golf with them.
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